Eternabond Roof Seal Tape on a Sunline (Lots of pics) — Sunline Coach Owners Club

Eternabond Roof Seal Tape on a Sunline (Lots of pics)

Hi Fellow Sunline Campers

As some of you may know this spring I repaired my slide from water damage. It is all fixed up now, better then new. The learning or (awaking) is what water intrusion can do to a camper and how long an ongoing issue can be until you realize it even with the best of intentions. I have had 2 good camping friends deal with roof water damage and they had no idea until after the damage was done. One of them has a brand new camper only 2 years old. You can see a pic of his situation later in this post. So after inspecting my roof this spring and seeing how hard you have to stay on top of cracked caulking that needs frequent inspections, I came to the conclusion I need to take some preventive actions. In my case the caulk cracks are aggravated by the fact my camper has lived outside all it’s life and it’s age. The new building has not come just yet…. So I set out on a mission to figure out what options there are to make the caulking situation better.

I’m not saying everyone needs to run out and do this to there camper. In fact there are not many who go down this approach of caulking alternatives. However I do encourage you to have your caulk checked often and dressed up right then and there. See this post for more on what to look for and how to address the caulking cracking. Rubber Roof Caulk — Inspect and repair 101

Looking for alternatives I found Eternabond, Roof Leak Repair Products & Sealing Tape | EternaBond Roof Seal. This sealing tape is a commercial roof product and is now growing in use with RV’s even when they are new. There is another brand that Rich2500 found that is reported to work well for him. Rich I’m sure may point out what he found. This post may take a few days to get it all up as I have been working on this now on and off for a few months. So here it goes. I’ll try and do this mainly in pics as that seems to get the point across better.

After research it appears the front and rear main roof seams are noted to being a point of concern where water can break thru the caulking over time so I started with them first. I had a learning experience with the front, rear and the skylight areas and had to redo them. I’ll comment more on that later on. Here is the final end product.

The front main seam. The first thing is to insure I had sound caulking. Eternabond states you can go right over well attached cracked sealant but I was not taking any chance so I may sure the caulk was sound to start with. This may be 200% overkill but I plan on keeping this camper a long time so 200% it is.

First I took up all the old caulk along the front seam and here was my 1st surprise. There was traces of moisture under the caulk. You can see a small gap next to the top hold down strip. In that gap was moisture that was prior covered with Dicro. I do not know if it was leaking in or sweat in from the metal going from hot to cold. However it reinforced to me I need to get all this up out of here and redo this area.

So out it all came and I put new fresh Dicor down plus I filled in the large gap in the middle of the screw area holding plate. This made the Roof Seal go over the plate and have a flatter surface to adhere to. I let it cure up for a week or more before applying the Roof Seal.

The roof area “must” be cleaned and prepped very well. You can use Acetone or other high flash cleaners only to be used for this purpose. I used some Acetone but I also used a product called Eternaclean. It is a high flash off cleaner that is made for rubber roofs to get the grim off and evaporate quick. Note this does make the rubber tacky and is not to be used as a general roof cleaner, only to prep and clean for the Roof Seal.

I used 2, 4” wide strips on the front. Some use a 6” wide roll but I had other uses for the 4” roll but I still have an effective 6” wide coverage. You lay out the Roof Seal to length and then a little extra. You will trim it perfect later on.

Then figure out how you will make the end fit

I took the approach to clean the aluminum gutter and bond to the gutter as well totally covering any caulk. Here I started in the top part of the end and gently tacked it. What ever you do make sure you know where you want it as it does not come back up to reposition.

I also added some left over release liner in the very end so I could tuck it down in the gutter without it all sticking to every thing. Then pull out the liner.

I use a rounded wood wedge to plant it in place and as a guide to run a utilty knife over to trim it to length.

Once planted I pull out the release liner. Note if you have to trim the tape, don’t pull it all off. Use a utility knife to trim right down into the corner edge. And used wedge to seat the tape and create the bond.

Then start working your way down the front cap. Only pull back about 12 to 15 inches at most at a time and keep it gently taught so it will not buckle up on itself.

You need to work the tape from the high spots then wipe towards the nice flat spots. This is to get the air out from under the tape

Now down to the other end.

I do use the wood wedge to use as a trimming guide as well.

Eternabond is pressure sensitive tape. You need to firmly press it all down to set the adhesive. I used 2 different rollers as I learned. Both worked well.

Then I went back and did the next pass. Here you can see it upside down.

There is a trick to getting the release liner off. You wiggle and snap the ends quick and the release liner puckers up so you can grab it.

Then the same as the first, I peel back some liner and add a separate piece so I can pull off the liner when down in the gutter.

Then the same as before. Tack, tuck and trim

Eternabond Roof Seal Tape on a Sunline (Lots of pics)

Hi Fellow Sunline Campers

As some of you may know this spring I repaired my slide from water damage. It is all fixed up now, better then new. The learning or (awaking) is what water intrusion can do to a camper and how long an ongoing issue can be until you realize it even with the best of intentions. I have had 2 good camping friends deal with roof water damage and they had no idea until after the damage was done. One of them has a brand new camper only 2 years old. You can see a pic of his situation later in this post. So after inspecting my roof this spring and seeing how hard you have to stay on top of cracked caulking that needs frequent inspections, I came to the conclusion I need to take some preventive actions. In my case the caulk cracks are aggravated by the fact my camper has lived outside all it’s life and it’s age. The new building has not come just yet…. So I set out on a mission to figure out what options there are to make the caulking situation better.

I’m not saying everyone needs to run out and do this to there camper. In fact there are not many who go down this approach of caulking alternatives. However I do encourage you to have your caulk checked often and dressed up right then and there. See this post for more on what to look for and how to address the caulking cracking. Rubber Roof Caulk — Inspect and repair 101

Looking for alternatives I found Eternabond, Roof Leak Repair Products & Sealing Tape | EternaBond Roof Seal. This sealing tape is a commercial roof product and is now growing in use with RV’s even when they are new. There is another brand that Rich2500 found that is reported to work well for him. Rich I’m sure may point out what he found. This post may take a few days to get it all up as I have been working on this now on and off for a few months. So here it goes. I’ll try and do this mainly in pics as that seems to get the point across better.

After research it appears the front and rear main roof seams are noted to being a point of concern where water can break thru the caulking over time so I started with them first. I had a learning experience with the front, rear and the skylight areas and had to redo them. I’ll comment more on that later on. Here is the final end product.

The front main seam. The first thing is to insure I had sound caulking. Eternabond states you can go right over well attached cracked sealant but I was not taking any chance so I may sure the caulk was sound to start with. This may be 200% overkill but I plan on keeping this camper a long time so 200% it is.

First I took up all the old caulk along the front seam and here was my 1st surprise. There was traces of moisture under the caulk. You can see a small gap next to the top hold down strip. In that gap was moisture that was prior covered with Dicro. I do not know if it was leaking in or sweat in from the metal going from hot to cold. However it reinforced to me I need to get all this up out of here and redo this area.

So out it all came and I put new fresh Dicor down plus I filled in the large gap in the middle of the screw area holding plate. This made the Roof Seal go over the plate and have a flatter surface to adhere to. I let it cure up for a week or more before applying the Roof Seal.

The roof area “must” be cleaned and prepped very well. You can use Acetone or other high flash cleaners only to be used for this purpose. I used some Acetone but I also used a product called Eternaclean. It is a high flash off cleaner that is made for rubber roofs to get the grim off and evaporate quick. Note this does make the rubber tacky and is not to be used as a general roof cleaner, only to prep and clean for the Roof Seal.

I used 2, 4” wide strips on the front. Some use a 6” wide roll but I had other uses for the 4” roll but I still have an effective 6” wide coverage. You lay out the Roof Seal to length and then a little extra. You will trim it perfect later on.

Then figure out how you will make the end fit

I took the approach to clean the aluminum gutter and bond to the gutter as well totally covering any caulk. Here I started in the top part of the end and gently tacked it. What ever you do make sure you know where you want it as it does not come back up to reposition.

I also added some left over release liner in the very end so I could tuck it down in the gutter without it all sticking to every thing. Then pull out the liner.

I use a rounded wood wedge to plant it in place and as a guide to run a utilty knife over to trim it to length.

Once planted I pull out the release liner. Note if you have to trim the tape, don’t pull it all off. Use a utility knife to trim right down into the corner edge. And used wedge to seat the tape and create the bond.

Then start working your way down the front cap. Only pull back about 12 to 15 inches at most at a time and keep it gently taught so it will not buckle up on itself.

You need to work the tape from the high spots then wipe towards the nice flat spots. This is to get the air out from under the tape

Now down to the other end.

I do use the wood wedge to use as a trimming guide as well.

Eternabond is pressure sensitive tape. You need to firmly press it all down to set the adhesive. I used 2 different rollers as I learned. Both worked well.

Then I went back and did the next pass. Here you can see it upside down.

There is a trick to getting the release liner off. You wiggle and snap the ends quick and the release liner puckers up so you can grab it.

Then the same as the first, I peel back some liner and add a separate piece so I can pull off the liner when down in the gutter.

Then the same as before. Tack, tuck and trim


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