Replacing Roof Vents 101 (with Pics) — Sunline Coach Owners Club

Replacing Roof Vents 101 (with Pic’s)

Fellow Campers

This weekend I started into changing out my roof vents. All 3 need to be replaced. So I have created a picture gram here in case some of you need to do this.

I have done 5 of these so far, 3 on the T2499 and now 2 on the T310SR. (still 1 yet to go. ) And I have to say that the 2 on the T310SR where a lot easier. I picked up a tip from Steve Collins here on the forum to use some heat to soften up the Dicor and the butyl putty tapes. And I can attestto, it is 300% easier. Thanks Steve

First some FAQs

What was the temp out when you did this?

Saturday it was 42 and Sunday it was

57. Yes spring sort of sprung. I had asked Larue on my T2499 and there is no exact temp requirement however above freezing is recommended. And the Dicor tube of sealant needs to be inside at 60F and above before you apply. It says this on the tube as well.

How long did it take?

Well you get better at this the more you do. The time listed below are on the 5th one I have done.

Inside roof vent prep. 10 to 20 minutes

Ladder, roof prep and haul up all the tools figure out how you are going to do this. 30 to 45 min. This gets longer each time your forget a tool down on the ground.

Take up the old roof sealant, lifting off the old vent and cleaning up the roof ready for install. 45 minutes.

Prepping the vent to install on the ground. 20- 30 minutes

Installing the vent and reapply sealant. 20 to 30 minutes.

Inside roof vent clean up, 10 minutes

If you have never done one of these before, make sure you have 4 hours of dry, daylight ahead of you.

Now what stuff do you have to haul up there? Here is a picture of the roof vent kit (Camera optional )

Now on with the show.

First you need to start inside. You have to take down the inside vent shroud. The 4 screws come out and down it comes. There are normally 2 other screws that hold the screen in. The handle comes off and down the screen comes. Then put the handle back on and open the vent 1/2 way. You can open/close it some then while on the roof.

This is what it will look like with the screen and shroud off.

The rook prep. I do not have a walk on roof. So first is to put down a canvas and then 5/8 to 3/4 plywood to span the 16 centers roof raters. The canvas protects the rubber roof from abrasion.

You need support on 2 sides of the vent. And the blue looking rug is for kneeling on. My knees are not that good anymore for that long. Can use knee pads as well.

In my case I had Maxx Air covers. For those who have not seen these, there are 4, 1/4 nuts on the roof. Need 7/16 socket wrench.

The cover is off and now you can get to the vent

Mine are so shot they plastic crumbles almost into dust.

Next is to get off the old Dicor roof sealant. Here you need a stiff tool of some sort but no sharp edges on it. If you use a putty knife, dull off all edges on the blade. In my case I have an old steel chisel that is duller then dull with almost a 1/ 32 radius on the end. I use it just for these type of prying jobs where my good chisels stay sharp.

A tip I picked up here on Sunline Club was to use a small amount of heat to soften up the sealant. (Thanks Steve. ) It is night and day different then doing it un heated. I have a 1500 watt paint heat gun but a hair dryer should do well to. You do not want to get carried away with the heat. Move the heat gun around.

And bring a shopping bag up with you for the scrap. Watch it, that sealant can get hot.

Work the heat with the tool and push easy. Do not dig in as you might touch the roof. The angle of the chisel worked well to keep may hand off the roof and it held the heat to help lift the sealant.

Once the screw heads and edge sealant are up, take out all the screws. These use a 1/4 hex socket. A drill motor/cordless drill here works well or your wrist will be shot.

Then warm the metal flange and work the tool under the metal. Once it is starting to lift put your hand inside, warm the flange and apply upward pressure.

Keep warming the flange and lift gently. Do not yank. It might lift the rubber. Let the putty tape release or use the tool to break it free and off it comes.

Then you have to get up the rest of the old Dicor and putty tape. Again light heat and keep gently working the tool. It will come right up.

Then clean the rubber roof with rubber roof cleaner and let it dry

Since I was putting the Maxx Air vents back on I drilled the brackets on first. It is just easier.

Then you need to put the putty tape on. I did this here to show it, but do it in the house if it is less than say 60F out. It will stick to the metal better. Or heat up the metal with the heat gun.

You need all 4 strips. It is optional to put a bead of Dicor around the inside edge where the flange goes. I have seen it both ways. Putting it there will fill any voids the putty tape does not seal.

Then place the vent over the hole and look inside to make sure it is even all the way around the hole or else. The or else is the screen inside will not fit up there if it is pushed all the way to once side.

Then start putting the screws in. Here a cordless drill with a torque clutch on the end helps get them all even. Do not get too over tight or you might bend up the metal.

Smooth out and squeezed out Dicor or putty tape. Then start applying the Dicor right over the screws heads and the full seam.

When done this stuff is amazing it self levels and even helps make the messy person look good.

Then let the Dicor tack up if you are putting a Maxx Air hood back on. Your now done.

Replacing Roof Vents 101 (with Pic’s)

Fellow Campers

This weekend I started into changing out my roof vents. All 3 need to be replaced. So I have created a picture gram here in case some of you need to do this.

I have done 5 of these so far, 3 on the T2499 and now 2 on the T310SR. (still 1 yet to go. ) And I have to say that the 2 on the T310SR where a lot easier. I picked up a tip from Steve Collins here on the forum to use some heat to soften up the Dicor and the butyl putty tapes. And I can attestto, it is 300% easier. Thanks Steve

First some FAQs

What was the temp out when you did this?

Saturday it was 42 and Sunday it was

57. Yes spring sort of sprung. I had asked Larue on my T2499 and there is no exact temp requirement however above freezing is recommended. And the Dicor tube of sealant needs to be inside at 60F and above before you apply. It says this on the tube as well.

How long did it take?

Well you get better at this the more you do. The time listed below are on the 5th one I have done.

Inside roof vent prep. 10 to 20 minutes

Ladder, roof prep and haul up all the tools figure out how you are going to do this. 30 to 45 min. This gets longer each time your forget a tool down on the ground.

Take up the old roof sealant, lifting off the old vent and cleaning up the roof ready for install. 45 minutes.

Prepping the vent to install on the ground. 20- 30 minutes

Installing the vent and reapply sealant. 20 to 30 minutes.

Inside roof vent clean up, 10 minutes

If you have never done one of these before, make sure you have 4 hours of dry, daylight ahead of you.

Now what stuff do you have to haul up there? Here is a picture of the roof vent kit (Camera optional )

Now on with the show.

First you need to start inside. You have to take down the inside vent shroud. The 4 screws come out and down it comes. There are normally 2 other screws that hold the screen in. The handle comes off and down the screen comes. Then put the handle back on and open the vent 1/2 way. You can open/close it some then while on the roof.

This is what it will look like with the screen and shroud off.

The rook prep. I do not have a walk on roof. So first is to put down a canvas and then 5/8 to 3/4 plywood to span the 16 centers roof raters. The canvas protects the rubber roof from abrasion.

You need support on 2 sides of the vent. And the blue looking rug is for kneeling on. My knees are not that good anymore for that long. Can use knee pads as well.

In my case I had Maxx Air covers. For those who have not seen these, there are 4, 1/4 nuts on the roof. Need 7/16 socket wrench.

The cover is off and now you can get to the vent

Mine are so shot they plastic crumbles almost into dust.

Next is to get off the old Dicor roof sealant. Here you need a stiff tool of some sort but no sharp edges on it. If you use a putty knife, dull off all edges on the blade. In my case I have an old steel chisel that is duller then dull with almost a 1/ 32 radius on the end. I use it just for these type of prying jobs where my good chisels stay sharp.

A tip I picked up here on Sunline Club was to use a small amount of heat to soften up the sealant. (Thanks Steve. ) It is night and day different then doing it un heated. I have a 1500 watt paint heat gun but a hair dryer should do well to. You do not want to get carried away with the heat. Move the heat gun around.

And bring a shopping bag up with you for the scrap. Watch it, that sealant can get hot.

Work the heat with the tool and push easy. Do not dig in as you might touch the roof. The angle of the chisel worked well to keep may hand off the roof and it held the heat to help lift the sealant.

Once the screw heads and edge sealant are up, take out all the screws. These use a 1/4 hex socket. A drill motor/cordless drill here works well or your wrist will be shot.

Then warm the metal flange and work the tool under the metal. Once it is starting to lift put your hand inside, warm the flange and apply upward pressure.

Keep warming the flange and lift gently. Do not yank. It might lift the rubber. Let the putty tape release or use the tool to break it free and off it comes.

Then you have to get up the rest of the old Dicor and putty tape. Again light heat and keep gently working the tool. It will come right up.

Then clean the rubber roof with rubber roof cleaner and let it dry

Since I was putting the Maxx Air vents back on I drilled the brackets on first. It is just easier.

Then you need to put the putty tape on. I did this here to show it, but do it in the house if it is less than say 60F out. It will stick to the metal better. Or heat up the metal with the heat gun.

You need all 4 strips. It is optional to put a bead of Dicor around the inside edge where the flange goes. I have seen it both ways. Putting it there will fill any voids the putty tape does not seal.

Then place the vent over the hole and look inside to make sure it is even all the way around the hole or else. The or else is the screen inside will not fit up there if it is pushed all the way to once side.

Then start putting the screws in. Here a cordless drill with a torque clutch on the end helps get them all even. Do not get too over tight or you might bend up the metal.

Smooth out and squeezed out Dicor or putty tape. Then start applying the Dicor right over the screws heads and the full seam.

When done this stuff is amazing it self levels and even helps make the messy person look good.

Then let the Dicor tack up if you are putting a Maxx Air hood back on. Your now done.


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